7°C
Minimum soil temperature to apply spring fertiliser
5–6cm
First mow height — never lower than this in February/March
Mid-March
Typical spring feed start for South of England
35g/m²
Spring overseeding rate for thin or bare areas
The most important spring rule: Do not start your spring programme by calendar date — start it by soil temperature. Applying fertiliser, overseeding or beginning intensive mowing before the soil reaches 7°C wastes money and effort. Buy a soil thermometer (£8–12) and check at 10cm depth in the morning. When it reads 7°C+ consistently for several days, spring has arrived for your lawn.
Soil Temperature Action Guide
When Soil Temperature Reaches… Do This
3–5°C
Iron Sulphate
Moss treatment only. No nitrogen. No mowing. Late Feb typical for South.
5–7°C
First Mow (high cut)
Cut at 5–6cm only. Remove top growth. Do not feed yet — too cold.
7–10°C
Spring Fertiliser
Apply spring NPK feed now. Grass can absorb and use nutrients effectively.
10°C+
Full Programme
Weedkiller, overseeding, scarify, aerate — all treatments now active and effective.
When UK Soil Reaches 7°C by Region
- Cornwall / Devon / South West coast: Mid-to-late February in mild years. Early March most years.
- South East England (London, Surrey, Kent): Mid-March most years. Late February in warm springs.
- East of England (Norfolk, Suffolk): Mid-to-late March — continental air keeps soils colder.
- Midlands (Birmingham, Nottingham): Late March to early April typically.
- Northern England (Manchester, Leeds, Newcastle): Early-to-mid April in most years.
- Scotland (Edinburgh, Glasgow): Mid-to-late April. Highland areas: early May.
- These are typical dates — individual years vary by 2–3 weeks. A soil thermometer is the only reliable guide. Check at 10cm depth at 9am on 3 consecutive days.
Spring Lawn Recovery Signs — Is It Ready?
- Active new growth visible: Fresh bright green leaf tips emerging — the most reliable visual sign that soil temperature is sufficient
- Lawn needs mowing: If it has grown noticeably since the last cut, soil temperature is above 5°C and spring has begun
- Lawn springs back immediately: Footprints no longer remain visible — the grass has enough turgor pressure (water and growth energy) to spring back from compression
- Soil no longer waterlogged: Ground feels firm under foot rather than spongy or compressible — safe to begin mowing and light treatment
- NOT ready if: grass is pale yellow-green with no active tips, soil still feels saturated, or frost is still occurring most nights
- The lawn always shows signs of readiness 5–7 days before the calendar-based "typical" date. Trust what you see, not what the calendar says.
February — Late Winter Into Spring
February
❄️🌱 Late Winter — Preparation & Moss Treatment. South West: First Mow Possible.
🌡️ 4–9°C average
❄️ Frost: frequent in North
🌱 Growth: none–very slow
⚗️ Iron sulphate: ideal month
February is a preparation and moss treatment month — not a renovation month. The lawn is still largely dormant in most of the UK. Use February to treat moss, prepare equipment, and on frost-free mild days carry out light remedial work. Do not rush — everything works better when the soil is warm enough.
Mow?
⚠️ SW only — 6cm
Spring Feed?
❌ Too cold
Iron sulphate?
✅ Excellent month
Scarify?
❌ Too early
Aerate?
⚠️ Clay — if dry
Overseed?
❌ Too cold
Weedkill?
❌ Weeds dormant
Edges?
⚠️ Recut if dry
February Priority Tasks
- Apply iron sulphate (ferrous sulphate) at 25–30g/m² on a mild, frost-free day — February is one of the most effective moss treatment months. Moss spores are less active, temperatures favour treatment uptake, and the lawn has time to recover before spring growth begins. Moss turns black within 2–3 weeks.
- Test soil pH with a simple kit (£5–8) — if soil is below pH 6.0, apply garden lime (calcified seaweed or ground limestone) at 50–70g/m² now. This begins the neutralisation process in time for spring feeding to be fully effective.
- Lightly rake off dead black moss from any previous iron sulphate treatment using a spring-tine rake — do NOT deep scarify. Remove the debris from the lawn surface.
- On clay soils that have dried enough (ground feels firm, not compressible) — carry out hollow-tine aeration. Clay structure benefits from winter aeration and the holes are available to accept sandy top dressing before spring growth.
- Recut lawn edges on mild, dry days — a clean half-moon edge cut in late February establishes crisp edges that are easy to maintain through spring. Edge along borders, paths and beds.
- Sharpen and clean mower blades — prepare the mower for the first cut. Check oil level, clean the deck and ensure the cutting height adjusters work smoothly.
- South West England and mild coastal areas: if soil temperature is above 5°C and grass has visibly grown 2–3cm, make the first very light mow at 6cm (highest setting). Remove clippings. This is the year's first cut — not a renovation mow.
- Order spring lawn fertiliser now if not already done — quality NPK formulations sell out from mid-March. Buy bulk iron sulphate (25kg) at the same time — 80% cheaper than retail brands.
February — What NOT To Do
- Do NOT apply nitrogen fertiliser — soil temperature is too low for grass to absorb it. It leaches straight to groundwater, wastes money and can trigger vulnerable soft growth before the last frost.
- Do NOT deep scarify — grass cannot recover quickly enough in cold conditions and open wounds invite frost damage and disease
- Do NOT walk on frosted or waterlogged areas — late February frosts are common across the whole UK. The frost rule applies equally in February as January.
- Do NOT apply weedkiller — weeds are still largely dormant and the product will not translocate effectively
March — Spring Awakening
March
🌱 Early–Mid Spring — Lawn Wakes Up. Begin Spring Programme When Soil Reaches 7°C.
🌡️ 6–12°C average
✂️ First mow: high cut 5–6cm
💊 Spring feed: mid–late March
🌱 Growth: accelerating
March is the most important spring month — the lawn's response to correct treatment now is dramatic. The first feed of the year, first proper mow and early scarifying in March set the tone for the entire growing season. Get March right and the lawn rewards you all summer.
Mow?
✅ Yes — 5–6cm first
Spring Feed?
✅ Mid–late March
Scarify?
⚠️ Light only
Aerate?
✅ Early March
Overseed?
⚠️ Late March only
Iron sulphate?
✅ Before feed
Weedkill?
❌ Too early
Edges?
✅ Monthly
March — In Order of Priority
- 1. First mow of the year — when soil temperature reaches 5°C and grass shows active growth, make the first cut at the highest mower setting (5–6cm). Ensure blades are sharp. Mow when grass is dry. Remove clippings. This tidies the lawn, stimulates fresh growth and begins the season.
- 2. Apply spring NPK fertiliser — from mid-March once soil reaches 7°C. Use a spring formulation (high nitrogen — 12:4:8 or similar). Apply on a dry day before rain is forecast. Water in if no rain within 48 hours. The lawn will respond visibly within 7–10 days — noticeably greener and faster growing.
- 3. Light scarify — after the first mow, lightly scarify to remove dead moss, surface thatch and matted winter grass. Use a spring-tine rake (hand) or electric scarifier on the shallowest setting. Do NOT deep scarify — grass cannot recover as fast as in autumn. Remove all debris.
- Hollow-tine aerate if not done in February — early March is the last good opportunity before spring growth makes aeration more disruptive. Follow with top dressing on clay soils.
- Apply iron sulphate before the spring feed if moss is still present — allow 2 weeks between iron sulphate and NPK fertiliser application. The iron sulphate kills remaining moss and hardens grass before the nitrogen feed stimulates rapid growth.
- Late March: overseed bare and thin patches — soil temperature is sufficient for germination by late March in the South. Use seed matched to your existing grass type. Rake in gently, ensure seed-to-soil contact, keep moist.
- Begin mowing weekly by late March as growth accelerates — reduce height gradually from 5–6cm to 4cm over 3–4 cuts. Never drop more than 1cm per cut.
- Apply liquid seaweed biostimulant in late March — improves root development and nutrient uptake, boosting the response to the spring feed
- North of England and Scotland: March is equivalent to South England's February. Do not be tempted to rush the spring programme before soil temperatures are sufficient. Your March programme happens in April.
March — What NOT To Do
- Do NOT apply spring fertiliser before soil reaches 7°C — the grass cannot absorb it below this temperature. Applying early wastes money, risks leaching, and can attract disease.
- Do NOT cut the lawn below 4cm in March — the lawn is still recovering from winter. Cutting too short stresses the plant before it has built up energy reserves.
- Do NOT apply selective weedkiller yet — wait until weeds are in full active growth (late April for most UK regions) for maximum effectiveness
- Do NOT walk on the lawn during or after heavy rain — March rainfall can be high and saturated clay soils compact easily
April — Peak Spring Growth
April
🌸 Mid–Late Spring — Peak Growth. Weekly Mowing. Weed Control & Last Spring Overseed Window.
🌡️ 8–15°C average
✂️ Mow weekly — 3.5–4cm
🌼 Weedkiller: active window
🌿 Last spring overseed window
April is peak spring growth — grass can grow 30–40mm per week in warm, wet conditions. Mowing frequency reaches its peak, weed control becomes highly effective, and the last reliable spring overseeding window is open. Miss April tasks and the lawn falls behind quickly.
Mow?
✅ Weekly 3.5–4cm
Feed?
✅ If not done Mar
Weedkill?
✅ Late April
Overseed?
✅ Last window
Scarify?
⚠️ Light — early Apr
Aerate?
⚠️ Last spring chance
Edges?
✅ Weekly
Wetting agent?
✅ Sandy soils — Apr
April Priority Tasks
- Mow weekly throughout April — lower height gradually from 5cm to 3.5–4cm over the month (never drop more than 1cm per cut). Standard family lawns: 4cm. Ornamental fine lawns: 2.5–3cm. Hard-wearing play lawns: 4.5cm.
- Apply spring NPK fertiliser if not done in March — by April soil temperature is reliably above 10°C across most of England. Grass utilises nitrogen very efficiently at this temperature. Apply at manufacturer rate on a dry day.
- Apply selective broadleaf weedkiller from late April — wait until weeds are in full active growth (visible leaf development, not just rosettes). Effective on dandelions, daisies, clover, plantain, speedwell, buttercup. Do NOT apply within 4 weeks of overseeding or to new grass seedlings.
- Last reliable spring overseed window — thin areas and bare patches should be overseeded in April at the latest. Use matched seed type at 35g/m² general, 50g/m² on bare patches. Keep moist. After mid-May, weed competition makes spring overseeding increasingly unreliable.
- Apply wetting agent to sandy and chalk soils — the last opportunity before the dry season begins. Prevents hydrophobic dry patch from developing in June–July.
- Hollow-tine aerate on clay soils if not done in February/March — the final spring aeration opportunity. Ground is workable and there is still time for the lawn to recover before summer.
- Establish lawn edges — April is the best month for redefining crisp edges. Use a half-moon edger along beds and borders. Edge weekly with long-handled edging shears to maintain.
- Watch for red thread disease (pink/red threads on grass blades in patches after cool, wet April nights) — apply nitrogen feed. The disease clears as growth resumes. No fungicide needed in most cases.
- Do NOT apply weedkiller and overseed at the same time. If both are needed: apply weedkiller first → wait 4 weeks → overseed. Or: overseed first → wait 8 weeks until new grass is established → weedkill.
April — What NOT To Do
- Do NOT apply weedkiller to newly seeded areas — selective herbicide kills new grass seedlings as effectively as it kills weeds
- Do NOT deep scarify in late April — open wounds in the lawn in late spring invite weed seed colonisation before the grass can fill gaps
- Do NOT cut wet grass — April rainfall is often heavy. Wet grass clumps under the mower and produces an uneven ragged cut. Wait for the surface to dry.
- Do NOT neglect mowing frequency in April — missing 2 consecutive weeks in April means the grass becomes too long to cut without scalping, requiring gradual reduction over many mows
First Mow of the Year — Complete Guide
How to Make the Perfect First Spring Mow
Step 1 — Check Conditions
Soil firm & dry?
Ground must be firm enough that your feet do not leave visible depressions. Grass must be dry. No frost forecast for 24 hours. Soil temperature ideally 5°C+.
Step 2 — Set Height
5–6cm (highest)
Set mower to highest setting — 5–6cm. Never cut more than one-third of the blade in one pass. The first cut removes only the tips to stimulate growth, not reduce height aggressively.
Step 3 — Sharp Blades
Sharp = critical
Blunt blades tear grass, leaving ragged brown tips. The first mow on stressed post-winter grass with a blunt blade causes significant visible damage. Sharpen or replace blades before the first cut.
Step 4 — Collect Clippings
Always collect first mow
The first spring clippings are lush and heavy — leaving them smothers the lawn. Collect and compost or use as border mulch (rich in nitrogen). Later in spring, clippings can be left if light.
Step 5 — Gradual Reduction
Drop 0.5–1cm per mow
Over 3–4 subsequent mows, lower the height gradually toward your target summer height (3.5–4cm for family lawns). Never drop more than 1cm at a time — scalping triggers dormancy and disease.
Step 6 — Frequency Build-Up
Fortnightly → weekly
Start with fortnightly mowing in early spring as growth is still moderate. Increase to weekly by April as growth peaks. By May in the South you may need twice-weekly mowing in rapid growth periods.
Spring Fertiliser — Complete Application Guide
Spring Feed — Key Numbers
7°C+
Minimum soil temperature for effective application
35g/m²
Typical granular NPK application rate (check product label)
6–8 weeks
Duration of standard spring NPK granular feed
Dry day
Apply on a dry day with rain forecast within 48 hours
12:4:8
Example spring NPK ratio — high N, moderate P, moderate K
4 weeks gap
Wait 4 weeks between iron sulphate and nitrogen fertiliser
How to Apply Spring Fertiliser Correctly
- Calibrate your spreader before starting — different products have different spreading rates. Test on a hard surface first and adjust.
- Apply in two half-rate passes at right angles to each other — east–west first, then north–south. This gives far more even coverage than a single pass.
- Apply on a dry day when rain is forecast within 48 hours — the rain washes granules from the leaf blade into the soil where roots absorb them. Without rain, water in within 24 hours.
- Apply in the morning and off the lawn by midday — fertiliser sitting on wet grass blades in strong spring sun can cause minor scorch marks.
- Keep children and pets off for 24 hours after application — until the granules have washed in and the surface is dry.
- Mow 3–5 days before applying — this removes thatch and dead grass that blocks granule-to-soil contact, improving uptake significantly.
- A liquid spring fertiliser (applied by watering can or knapsack sprayer) gives faster results (visible response within 5 days vs 10–14 days for granular) but feeds for a shorter duration (3–4 weeks vs 6–8 weeks for granular).
Spring Fertiliser Products — What to Choose
- Standard spring NPK granular (e.g. 12:4:8): Best for most UK lawns. Apply once in March or April. Feeds for 6–8 weeks. Apply with spreader for even coverage. Cost: £8–18 for 60m².
- Slow-release granular (e.g. MiniTec, Vivendum): Professional-grade product. Feeds for 12–16 weeks — a single spring application carries the lawn to July. More expensive but highly cost-effective per week of feeding. Used by professional lawn companies.
- Liquid fertiliser (concentrate): Fast response — ideal for quick green-up or treating patchy areas. Apply with watering can or knapsack sprayer. Repeat every 3–4 weeks.
- Do NOT use autumn/winter feed in spring — autumn formulations are high-K, low-N. Using them in spring produces weak, slow growth when you need vigour.
- Do NOT use summer feed with weedkiller (4-in-1) before overseeding — the herbicide component will kill new grass seedlings within the product's active period.
- Buy in bulk (10kg+ bags) from professional lawn care suppliers rather than garden centres — typically 40–60% cheaper per m² with identical quality. Brands: Johnsons, ICL, Flexgreen, Amenity Land.
Spring Weed Control — Identification & Treatment Guide
Spring weed control timing: The most common mistake is applying weedkiller too early (March). Selective broadleaf weedkillers work by being absorbed through actively growing leaves and translocated to the roots. Apply in late April to mid-May when weeds are in full active growth — not when they are just emerging. Results from late April application are typically 70–80% better than early March application.
| Weed | Identification | Best Control Month | Treatment | Manual Option |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dandelion | Yellow flowers, deeply toothed leaves in a flat rosette. Deep taproot — regrows if not fully removed. | Apr–May | Selective herbicide containing mecoprop-P, dicamba or 2,4-D. 2–3 applications 4 weeks apart for stubborn plants. | Dandelion fork tool — remove entire taproot. Replace soil and overseed. |
| Daisy | White petals, yellow centre. Low flat rosettes resist mowing. Very common in UK lawns. | Apr–May | Selective herbicide — daisies are susceptible to standard lawn weedkiller. One well-timed application usually sufficient. | Daisy grubber tool. Overseed bare patches left behind. |
| Clover (White) | Three-part leaves with white half-moon marking. Spreading surface runners. Fixes nitrogen — indicator of low-N soil. | May–Jun | Clover is more difficult to kill than other weeds — requires mecoprop-P or dicamba-based products. 2–3 applications needed. Raise nitrogen feeding — clover thrives in low-N conditions. | Difficult to remove manually due to spreading rhizomes. Feeding is the best long-term prevention. |
| Plantain (Broadleaf) | Oval ribbed leaves in a flat rosette. Very tolerant of mowing. Common on compacted areas. | Apr–May | Standard selective herbicide — good response. Aerate compacted areas to remove the underlying cause. | Knife or plantain fork to remove the crown. Overseed the gap. |
| Speedwell (Slender) | Tiny blue flowers, small rounded leaves. Creeping mat-forming growth. Very common in moist UK lawns. | Apr–May | More resistant than other weeds — use mecoprop-P products specifically. May need 2–3 applications at 4-week intervals. Improve drainage. | Difficult to remove manually. Scarify to lift the mat. Overseed after. |
| Buttercup (Creeping) | Glossy yellow flowers, lobed three-part leaves. Spreading runners on surface. Common on poorly drained areas. | May | Standard lawn herbicide containing 2,4-D and dicamba. Improve drainage — buttercup thrives in wet compacted soil. | Remove runners by hand raking. Hollow-tine aerate to improve drainage. |
| Yarrow | Feathery fern-like leaves. White flower clusters. Low growing and tolerant of mowing. Indicator of dry sandy soil. | May–Jun | Apply mecoprop-P based herbicide at full rate. May require 2 applications. Improve watering and feeding programme — yarrow thrives in dry, underfed conditions. | Difficult to remove manually. Feed and water the lawn to encourage grass competition. |
| Moss (not a weed — separate treatment) | Cushion-like bright green growth. Different texture and colour from grass. Thrives in shade, damp, compacted, acidic conditions. | Feb–Mar | Iron sulphate (ferrous sulphate) at 30–35g/m². NOT selective weedkiller — completely different chemistry. See dedicated moss removal guide. | Spring-tine rake after iron sulphate treatment (when black and dead). Address the underlying cause. |
Regional Spring Lawn Guide — UK Differences
| Region | Soil 7°C Date | First Mow | Spring Feed | First Weedkill | Key Spring Issue |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cornwall / Devon | Late Feb–early Mar | Feb (mild years) | Early–mid March | Late March–April | Moss on shaded/wet areas. Growth starts early — equipment must be ready. |
| South East England | Mid March | Early–mid March | Mid–late March | Late April | Dry spells from April on sandy soils. Begin irrigation on chalk soils by late April. |
| East of England | Late March | Mid–late March | Late March–early April | Late April–early May | Cold east winds delay spring. Sandy soils — quick to respond once warm but drought-prone. |
| Midlands | Late March–early Apr | Late March | Early April | Late April–May | Heavy clay soils — wait for proper drying before aerating. Compaction common. |
| Northern England | Early–mid April | Early April | Mid April | May | Late frosts can occur into April. Spring programme is 3–4 weeks behind South England. |
| Scotland | Mid–late April | Mid April | Late April–early May | Late May | Short spring window — act promptly when soil warms. Heavy moss from long, wet winters. |
| Northern Ireland | Mid March–early April | March | Late March–April | Late April–May | High rainfall — moss is the dominant spring issue. Drainage and aeration priority. |
Spring Lawn Care Checklist — February, March & April
Click each task to mark it complete. Work through these tasks as conditions allow — always led by soil temperature, not calendar date.
Frequently Asked Questions
Apply the first spring fertiliser when soil temperature at 10cm depth consistently reads 7°C or above — measured in the morning on at least 3 consecutive days. This is typically mid-to-late March in South England, early April in the Midlands and late April in Northern England and Scotland. Do not apply by calendar date alone — soil temperature varies significantly year to year. In a warm early spring, the South can be ready by late February. In a cold late spring, Northern England may not reach 7°C until early May. Signs your lawn is ready: active new green growth is visible, mowing has resumed, and footprints spring back immediately. Applying nitrogen before 7°C means the grass cannot absorb it — it leaches to groundwater, wastes money and can attract fungal disease. A soil thermometer (£8–12) pays for itself in a single season by preventing wasted feed applications.
For the main annual scarification, wait until September — autumn scarification produces dramatically better results than spring for several reasons: soil is warm enough for overseeded grass to germinate readily (above 10°C), natural rainfall increases to support recovery, and weed competition from annual weeds reduces significantly. Spring scarification is appropriate for light work only — removing the dead black moss left after February iron sulphate treatment, and lifting surface matting from winter. Keep spring scarification shallow (electric scarifier on shallowest setting, or spring-tine rake) and carry it out in March before the main growth surge. Deep or aggressive scarification in spring exposes the lawn to weed seed colonisation from the huge weed seed bank that germinates from April onwards. If you have significant thatch or heavy moss, treat it lightly in spring and carry out the full deep renovation in September — you will get far better results for the same amount of work.
Follow this sequence: (1) Wait for soil temperature to reach 5°C and carry out the first mow at 5–6cm height. (2) Apply iron sulphate to any areas with moss — wait 2–3 weeks for it to turn black. (3) Lightly scarify and rake away dead moss and debris. (4) Hollow-tine aerate the entire lawn if compaction is present. (5) Top dress clay soils with sandy loam brushed into aeration holes. (6) Apply spring NPK fertiliser once soil reaches 7°C. (7) Overseed thin and bare areas at 35–50g/m² using matched seed. (8) Keep overseeded areas moist for 3 weeks. Important: do not try to do everything in one day or too early in the season. A thin post-winter lawn needs warmth, food and seed — not aggressive renovation in cold conditions. The lawn will look dramatically better within 4–6 weeks of following this sequence correctly. If the lawn is extremely thin (more than 50% bare), consider whether full overseeding or re-turfing of the worst sections is more practical than patching — ask yourself honestly whether the patch will blend in or remain obvious all summer.
Yes — combination weed and feed products (4-in-1 products like EverGreen Complete) are designed to do exactly this in a single application. They are convenient and widely available. However, there are important trade-offs: (1) Weed and feed products should NOT be applied if you plan to overseed within 6–8 weeks — the herbicide component kills new grass seedlings. (2) They should NOT be applied in drought conditions — the weedkiller can damage drought-stressed grass. (3) Applying them too early (before weeds are in active growth) means the herbicide is less effective even if the fertiliser is well-timed. For best results, apply a straight NPK fertiliser in March (when soil reaches 7°C) and apply the selective weedkiller separately in late April–May (when weeds are in full active growth). This two-product approach gives better weed kill rates than combined products because each is applied at its optimal timing. If convenience is the priority, use a weed and feed in late April–May — when both grass and weeds are in full active growth and no overseeding is planned.
Spring overseeding is less reliable than autumn overseeding but works well if these conditions are met: (1) Wait until soil temperature is consistently above 10°C (typically late March in the South, April in the North). Below 10°C, germination is slow and patchy. (2) Use grass seed matched to your existing lawn — ryegrass for hard-wearing family lawns, fine fescue/bent for ornamental lawns. Mismatched seed is obvious year-round. (3) Scarify or fork the bare area to break the surface — seed needs soil contact to germinate. (4) Apply seed at 50g/m² on bare patches and 35g/m² on thin areas. Rake in gently. (5) Keep the seeded area moist — this is the most critical factor. The seed must not dry out during the 10–21 day germination period. In dry spring weather, water lightly daily. (6) Do NOT apply any selective weedkiller for at least 8 weeks after overseeding — it will kill every new seedling. (7) Protect against bird predation — seed can be stripped within hours in some gardens. Use fleece, netting or a commercial bird deterrent. April is the last reliable spring window — from mid-May onwards, weed competition (annual meadow grass, annual weeds) outcompetes slow-establishing grass seedlings.
A yellow-green or pale green lawn in February–March is normal and caused by several temporary factors: (1) Nitrogen depletion — the lawn has used its stored nutrients through winter and the soil is still too cold for the grass to take up any available nutrients efficiently. This resolves immediately with the first spring NPK feed once soil reaches 7°C. (2) Iron deficiency — common on alkaline (high pH) soils where iron is locked up and unavailable. Iron sulphate application restores colour within days. (3) Reduced chlorophyll production — in low winter light, grass produces less chlorophyll (the green pigment). As day length increases through March and April, colour naturally deepens. (4) Moss competition — moss has a distinctly different yellow-green colour from grass. If the pale areas have a spongy, cushion-like texture, moss (not grass) is the dominant plant. Treat with iron sulphate. (5) Fusarium disease residue — pale straw-coloured patches matching circular patterns from winter fungal disease. Apply spring NPK feed and overseed affected areas once soil is warm enough. In all cases, the spring NPK fertiliser is the primary treatment — the lawn will green up visibly within 7–10 days of a well-timed spring feed.